LAST UPDATED 25/06/2008
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Level of surfing

Advanced

Quality of surf

Very Good

Call code

676

Net code

to

Area

748

Coastline

419 km

Climate

Tropical; modified by trade winds; warm season (December to May)

Hazards

Very Isolated, Cyclones, Difficult Access

Best Months

May - September

Population

102000

Currency

Pa'anga (TOP)

Time Zone

(UTC+13)

Special Requirements

Private Beaches, Strict Religious Observance

introduction

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Evgenia Pavlova: Flying over Tonga; April 2007

The Kingdom of Tonga is an independent archipelago with three main islands in the southern Pacific Ocean. It is situated south east of Fiji, between Hawaii and New Zealand.  Tonga’s closest neighbour is Samoa and it shares similar travel and surfing experiences.  The explorer Captain James Cook dubbed Tonga, the ‘Friendly Islands’, because of the friendly reception he received, and certainly a friendly people and relaxed environment await the travelling surfer.  However don’t expect Margaritas and 5 star luxury, because Tonga is still relatively underdeveloped and less frequently travelled so along with your thatch hut and mosquito net, you get uncrowded and consistent waves year round.  

history

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George McFinnigan: Royal Palace of Tonga, in Nuku'alofa; 22 October 2005

Tonga has been inhabited for at least 3,000 years by Polynesians.  However they weren’t explored by white men until the early 1600’s by the Dutch. The most recorded exploration of the islands by British explorer James Cook who landed on islands in 1773 and 1777. The current royal dynasty of Tonga was founded in 1831 by Taufa'ahau Tupou, who took the name George I. He consolidated the kingdom by conquest and in 1875. In 1900, under his grandson George II, Tonga signed a treaty of friendship with Britain, and so became a British protected state until Tonga gaining independence on June 4, 1970.  The government is largely controlled by the king, and a small group of hereditary nobles. However in the 1990s a movement began aimed at curtailing the powers of the monarchy, and the Tongan Pro-Democracy Movement (TPDM) continues to gain in popular support today. Through 2005 and 2006 discontent and social inequalities in the Kingdom grew and as a result, Prince Ulukalala Lavaka Ata resigned as prime minister in Feb. 2006, to be replaced by pro-democracy leader Feleti Sevele, the first elected commoner to serve as the country's prime minister.  

One of the most infamous incidents in the countries recent history happened in 2002 when the king's official court jester, American Jesse Bogdonoff, a former salesman of magnets to relieve back pain,  squandering $26 million of Tonga's money (40% of the country’s annual revenue) in dodgy investment schemes. He was subsequently sued by the government and agreed to pay a $1 million settlement.  Tonga today is the only monarchy among the island nations in the Pacific Ocean and is ruled by Tupou V.  Tonga's former king, Tupou IV, who died in 2006, was for quite some time listed in the Guinness Book of World Records as the heaviest monarch in the world weighing in at over 200 kg (440 pounds), now that’s a lot of king!

surfing

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Evgenia Pavlova: Local boy enjoying south swell; April 2007

Tonga has plenty of breaks waiting to be explored by the travelling surfer, however take note there are no beach breaks in Tonga, so its time to get used to surfing reef. The main island of Tongatapu has some of the best surf Tonga has to offer with a chain of offshore reefs close to the coast. Though, most of these reefs tend to be pretty shallow and are only surfable at and around high tide and almost dry at low tide. So you may spend much of your day waiting for the tide to come up, for several hours of glory.  The most popular and easily accessible surfing region is off Ha'atafu Beach on western Tongatapu. Here you will find waves breaking over shallow reefs just 100 metres off the beach. Further offshore only accessible by boat are more quality breaks.  It has been reported that there are also some excellent waves off Eue'iki Island off the north-east coast of Tongatapu, but getting to them is difficult. The island contains only a small village with no electricity, and boat access is usually found by befriending a local fisherman. In Tonga, Sunday is a strict day of rest with officially no surfing allowed.  However if the waves are on, the subtle surfer can still find himself a surf.

Like much of the Pacific Islands, Tonga generally receives swell year round, although exhibiting two distinct surfing seasons. From November to April, North Pacific winter swells pound the off shore reefs.  This swell is generated by deep lows that form in the North Pacific and propagate swell that lights up Hawaii’s famous north shore.  A few days later this same swell crosses the equator to reach Tonga.  Tonga lies in the shadow of Samoa and so has a smaller swell window generally seeing swells that are more Westerly than Northerly. Also at this time of year, South Pacific tropical cyclones can produce good swells if you’re lucky enough to have one blow up in the right location, particularly those forming between Papua New Guinea and Australia that track south giving days of consistent westerly swell.   From April to October, deep lows tracking across the Southern Ocean south of Australia and New Zealand provide consistent clean groundswells.   Most of the south and south-westerly swell from these lows are blocked by New Zealand and hence Tonga generally receives south-easterly swell from the lows that have passed East of New Zealand.  However occasionally south-westerly swells may arrive at the islands after piecing the gap between Australia and New Zealand.  South-east trade winds also dominate the weather at this time of year, which means the wind is conveniently blowing directly off-shore at the Ha'atafu region. Water temperatures are very warm with virtually no seasonal variation, apart from the eastern-most islands, which tend to have slightly cooler water during the southern hemisphere winter.

travel

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Typical roadside store in Nuku'alofa (from wikitravel.org)

There are just two ways of getting to Tonga: by plane or yacht. Lucky you if you have a private yacht! As arriving by yacht, like many people do, can be a great experience.
Flying from Australia, New Zealand or the US is quite easy. Virgin Blue are flying from Sydney and other state capitals in Australia as well as Auckland. Air New Zealand flies from Auckland and Los Angeles. You can also fly from Fiji.
Taxis or buses are usually not a problem when you arrive. There are lots of taxis waiting at the exit of the airport, buses as well, which are much cheaper. Getting around is quite easy as well, take a bus or taxi when you want to explore an island (it is a great way to get closer to the real life, as in the peak hours you will be travelling with a bunch of locals: loud music, full bus and the whole atmosphere is so laidback!).
It is also worth travelling between the islands. Depending on the distance you can either fly or take a boat/yacht. Flying will be more expensive and depending on how far is the island you want to visit, it may be a better option to take a boat. There are islands with resorts on them and little boats deliver food to those islands every day. Check when they depart at the main wharf as they take a small number of passengers as well.  Basically, you can get to the island before midday, explore it, have lunch at the resort (people are usually very friendly) and take the same boat back to the main island (just make sure you ask them at what time they departure not to miss it).
Other option is to take a tour. Just go to the tourist centres and check what option they have (usually there will be trips to the different islands that have resorts and offer snorkelling, diving and other activities).
You can rent a car (from Friend's Tourist Centre on the main island Tongatapu), but take into consideration that most cars in Tonga are not in good condition, there are just a few or no road signs on the roads, roads themselves are in a so-so condition and the speed limit on most of the island is 40kph, so decide for yourself whether you want it or nor. There are no timetables for buses and they are not very reliable in the afternoon (mornings are fine), so frankly speaking taxi is the most comfortable option, if your budget is ok with it.

weather

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Evgenia Pavlova: Rainbow surf at Tonga; April 2007

The climate around Tonga is subtropical; terms like winter and summer are not truly applicable in this region. Temperatures remain mild year round thanks to the moderating influences of the South Pacific Ocean that surrounds the islands and to their proximity to the equator. The two climatic seasons are defined by the south-east trade winds or “dry season" from May to October and the "wet season” from November to April. Rain can occur year-round because both of the trade winds carry large amounts of moisture to the islands however there is relatively less rainfall during the dry season and the difference is not as marked as in truly tropical locations. The lack of high mountain terrain sees Tonga receive less rainfall than its close neighbours such as Fiji.

The main influences on Tonga’s weather are the south-east trades, the permanent belt of high pressure over the South Pacific, and the SouthPacific Convergence Zone (SPCZ). The south-east trades are near-permanent south-easterly surface winds that flow around the subtropical South Pacific high toward the equator. The SPCZ is a persistent zone oflow-level convergence of the northeast and southeast trades in this area. It extends south-eastwards from just north of Australia to French Polynesia. It shifts north and south with the sun, which it lags by about two months.

In the dry season, it, and its associated rainfall, are farthest away. By February, the SPCZ is at its farthest south position over northern Vanuatu (west of Tonga). Tropical cyclones are a year-round threat for Tonga; the main season is December-March. Cyclones have occurred in April, but most tropical cyclones outside the main season remain north of the area. Cyclones generally originate to the west along the SPCZ.

The prevailing winds come from the south-east or east (trades) at 10-15 knots or less year round. Afternoon sea breeze winds augment the trades and land breeze winds dampen them somewhat but do not always stop them. Calm conditions occur a most commonly at night. Although the temperature is consistently mild, the dry season has slightly cooler average temperatures. On rare occasions, a cold front that traverses well north from the Southern Ocean can bring unusually cool conditions to Tonga for a day or two. Because Tonga, more or less, gets rain year-round, the humidity remains high.

where to stay

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Evgenia Pavlova: Bungalow at Ha’atafu Beach Resort; April 2007

Accommodation in Tonga is quite affordable comparing to other surf destinations. There are nice little resorts on the main island (International Dateline Hotel, Harbor View Motel, The Lagoon Lodge), as well as on the smaller ones (    Fafa island resort, Keleti Beach Resort).

Ha’atafu Beach Resort is located on the main island of Tongatapu 21km west of the capital Nuku'alofa on the Hihifo Peninsula and has been run by Steve and Sesika Burling since 1979. Steve, originally from Australia, is a surfer himself, so his extensive knowledge of local breaks, conditions and weather patterns ensures that you'll always access the best surf available. There are 8 fales (bungalows) set amongst landscaped tropical gardens right on the beach and 2 centrally located amenities blocks with solar showers. The beautiful lagoon before the reef break will amaze you with it’s variety of tropical fish and corals.

what to pack

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Evgenia Pavlova: Fully equipped, Tonga; April 2007

Take a very good sunscreen with high level of protection. It is absolutely essential, as well as sunnies, hats, long sleeved shirts and long skirts for ladies to cover legs. Don’t underestimate the strength of the sun; your skin won’t forgive you. Just in case you still ignore our advice, take a lot of Aloe Vera. Repellent might be useful as well. Medicines – as usual.
You may also need a pair of waterproof boots and a good backpack if you plan to explore the islands. Depending on the season tropical rains can be quite often, so it’s a good idea to take something waterproof if you plan to go outside. Another option would be just to stay at you place and have a nap – the whole atmosphere is very laidback.
Though many resorts have snorkelling gear, better take your own, especially if you plan to do a bit of travelling to different islands.
Take a few light and casual things, nothing fashionable – you won’t need it there. Camera, adaptor, good books to read and music. Oh, yeah, booties, helmet and top will be useful on the reef break, as it can get quite shallow.

dangers and warnings

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Evgenia Pavlova: Protect you feet, Tonga; April 2007

The only warnings would be: very strong sun, mosquitoes, sharp corrals in the sand (better wear sandals all the time), shallow reef breaks.
Yes, and if you plan to drink kava, don’t use the tap water. It’s also better to do it with locals who will show you the ceremony, so there’s less chance for you to behave offensive. And don’t drink too much for the first time, otherwise you won’t be able to do anything the next day.

restaurants, shopping and nightlife

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A Tongan coin: paʻanga (from wikitravel.org)

Food is great in Tonga, especially for those, who love seafood, though meat is great there as well (oh, you’ll see pigs pretty much everywhere). Fish is caught every morning, except on Sundays. There is a decent range of restaurants and bars in Nuku'alofa, but they are divided into two localities about 20 minutes walk apart. In the centre of the town there are a few near the main market (you won’t miss it) and post office. You’ll also find some more if you head down towards the ferry terminal.
A good meal out will cost you 30-50 Pa'anga, a beer in a restaurant or bar costs about 5-6 Pa'anga, hiring a car is about 50-60 Pa'anga a day. You can also
The local beer is called Ikale and is sold in 330 ml bottles in most restaurants and bars (4.50-5 Pa'anga), but there are also beer and liquor from Fiji, Australia and New Zealand (available from many outlets).
And it just has to be mentioned: breakfasts and dinners at Ha’atafu Beach Resort are absolutely unforgettable.
The native drink in Tonga is called Kava and it’s worth trying it, just follow our advise in the previous part.
The national currency is the Pa'anga, or Tongan dollar. If you want to bring back home some souvenirs, you can go to the main market in Nuku'alofa (bargaining is accepted) and you will also find some shops nearby that sell souvenirs.
Tonga is the best place to relax, eat, sleep and catch some nice waves. It’s not the best destination for a nightlife, though it still exists, especially if you go to the big resorts. Tonga Bob's Cantina (in Vava’u) has great Mexican food as well as drinks and shows sporting events on 2 televisions.  This one is preferred by the younger generation, old folks go to Mermaid. And there's also one nightclub that's open until 4am and 2 others that are packed year-round with locals and expatriates.

what to do when it's flat

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Evgenia Pavlova: Seastar in the lagoon, Tonga; April 2007

Islands of Tonga offer their visitors great flora and fauna, so enjoy snorkelling, diving, fishing, bush walking, trips between the islands. And don’t be ashamed of feeling lazy: eat and sleep, everybody else is doing pretty much the same =)

useful phrase guide

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Ivan Goloborodko: Seashells, Tonga; April 2007

Malo e lelei! - Hello!
‘Oku ke fefe hake? - How are you?
Sai pe - Very well/just fine
Fakamolemole - Please
Malo - Thank you
‘Io - Yes
‘Ikai - No
‘Alu a! - Goodbye! (to the person leaving)
Nofo a! - Goodbye! (to the person staying)
Ko hai ho hingoa? - What is your name?
Hu mai! - Come in!
Talitali fiefia - Welcome
Tamasi'I - Boy
Ta'ahine - Girl
Kataki - Sorry
Lahi - Big
Si'isi'I - Small

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